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Enjoy the beautiful and unique scenery of Kurobe Gorge (黒部峡谷) on the fun and exciting Torokko Train. You don’t want to miss this nature’s wonder in Japan!
After visiting the beautiful historic city of Kanazawa and one of Japan’s three great gardens (read the post), our excursion will now take us to one of Japan’s 3 Great Gorges – Kurobe Gorge (黒部渓谷).
While we were planning our itinerary for our 1 week trip in Japan, the goal was to spend 2 nights in each hotel throughout the trip. The reason for this is because traveling with our young children, we knew it might take a toll on them physically if we had to check-in and out of a different hotel every day. At least by spending 2 nights in each location, it gives them a break and Mr. JOC doesn’t have lug around our suitcases every day.
For our summer trip this year, we had our minds set on Kanazawa (金沢) and Takayama (高山) as 2 places we wanted to visit for sure, but we weren’t sure where else we wanted to visit and explore. We debated between visiting Noto Peninsula (能登半島) north of Kanazawa, or explore the Kurobe Gorge and snow corridor (雪の大谷) of Mt. Tateyama in the region. We thought our children would have fun riding on the Torokko train (トロッコ電車), so Kurobe Gorge here we come!
For the next 2 days, we decided to stay in a hotel in Toyama (富山), which is a central location for traveling to Kurobe Gorge and to Mt. Tateyama. I’ll share details on the accommodation later in the post.
Transportation to Kurobe Gorge
From Kanazawa to Kurobe Unazukionsen (黒部宇奈月温泉) station, it only takes a quick 36 minutes via the Shinkansen (thank you Japan Rail Pass).
Our hotel was in Toyama in the evening and we weren’t sure if Kurobe Unazukionsen station has a large coin locker that fits our luggage, so we got off at Toyama station first to store our luggage in the station coin locker (¥600 for a large locker, which fits 3 carry-on suitcases).
From Toyama to Kurobe Unazukionsen station, it only takes 12 minutes via Shinkansen, or alternatively 51 minutes by the local train. For instructions on how to use Google Maps for transportation options in Japan, please read my Asakusa post.
When you arrive at Kurobe Unazukionsen station, you will need to exit the station and head across the street to Shin Kurobe (新黒部) station to go to Kurobe Gorge. The station is fairly new but quite small with seating for just a few people inside. You will purchase your ticket to Unazuki Onsen (宇奈月温泉) station inside the Shin Kurobe station.
While waiting for our train to arrive, we got to check out the Torokko train on display outside the station. Our children were very excited!
The Shin Kurobe station is located in a remote countryside setting. It was very peaceful looking at the rice fields and enjoying the scenery while waiting for the train to come.
The ride to Unazuki Onsen station from Shin Kurobe will take 16 minutes or 24 minutes depending on the time of your departure. Unlike what you may be accustomed to seeing in Tokyo and other large cities in Japan, the Toyama Chiho Main Line trains for this route are a bit older.
Along the way to Unazuki Onsen, you pass by many small stations. It was interesting for my family to see these older forgotten stations, as they are used to bustling train stations with thousands of people that utilize the stations each day.
When you get to Unazuki Onsen station, you will need to walk about 5 minutes to the Unazuki (宇奈月) station, where Torokko trains will depart. I know the station names are similar and are a bit confusing…
Kurobe Gorge Torokko Train
What is a Torokko Train (トロッコ電車)? The Japanese word Torokko actually comes from the English word “truck”, and its primary meaning is the mining or transportation cars used to haul materials for construction. These days Torokko means passenger cars, but with bare minimum comfort and usually, the main purpose is for sightseeing.
This incredibly scenic route was originally built by the Kansai Electric Power company for transporting materials and personnel for the construction of hydro-electric plants back in 1937. For a long time, it was just used by the company to maintain and build power plants. Due to its unique scenery unlike anywhere else in Japan, there was a demand for people to see the sights and the company started transporting passengers in 1953.
There are basically 2 types of seats you can get for the Kurobe Gorge Torokko train (even though the website and info page make it seems like 3). The seats are either open-air or enclosed. The enclosed ones are called second class car (特別車) and first-class/relax car (リラックス車).
With your tickets, you are assigned to a specific car number but you can choose any seats within the car. The open-air cars have benches and the enclosed ones have individual seats, with an option to fold down the armrest in the center to create a bench. You can reserve and book the Torokko tickets online but the site is in Japanese only.
On the Kurobe Gorge Railway (黒部峡谷鉄道) route, there are 3 stops you can get off the train from Unazuki station. Options are Kuronagi (黒薙), Kanetsuri (鐘釣), and the final stop is Keyakidaira (欅平). You are not allowed to hop on and off the train on the same ticket between your start and final destination. After discussing the different options, we opted to go all the way to Keyakidaira. The ride to Keyakidaira takes 80 minutes each way.
As you are getting ready to leave Unazkuki station on the Torokko train, sit on the right side of the train for the best view. When the locomotive starts moving, you hear the rhythmic sound of the locomotive ahead of you and feel the vibrations and movements that are signatures of a Torokko train.
Soon after leaving the station, you will see the long and red Shin-Yamabiko Bridge (新山彦橋) and one of the many tunnels you’ll go through.
As you look around, the area is surrounded by pristine forest and undisturbed natural surroundings, with little evidence of humans being there (outside the power plants and the railroad).
Thousands upon thousands of trees and greens as far as your eye can see.
The first dam that you will see is Unazuki Dam (宇奈月ダム), which was completed in 2001. The view of the expansive emerald green water and the blue sky was absolutely gorgeous.
As you proceed along the route, the Shin-Yanagawara Power Station (新柳河原発電所) that resembles a European castle comes into view. Kind of a odd shape for a power plant but definitely one of a kind.
I felt adventurous when the train went through parts of the routes supported by steel beams, as if I was in an Indiana Jones movie.
This area due to its natural setting still has wild monkeys and there’s a suspension bridge built just for them to cross the gorge.
We caught a glimpse of a monkey right by the side of the road from the train. Can you find it below?
As the train moves along, you can imagine the difficulty the workers must have experienced in building this railroad route.
For the most part, the route barely hugs the mountain one side and usually a steep cliff on the other.
It was a bit terrifying and definitely exhilarating looking down Atobiki Bridge (後曳橋) while crossing, the thought of what happens if an earthquake happens right now went through my mind.
After the Kuronagi station, near the Atobiki Bridge, you can see the aqueduct that carries water from Dashidaira Dam (出し平ダム) to Shin-Yanagawara Power Station.
The bridge connects one of the many V-shaped ravines in the gorge.
This region in Kurobe snows a lot, so the train only operates from April through November. How do the electric company workers maintain the power stations in the winter? There is a winter walking path tunnel they have to use (see below) to hike all the way in.
During the entire ride, there are explanations of the locations and various interesting facts along the way but it’s all in Japanese.
It was really awe-inspiring to see the vertical 200 meter high cliffs of the gorge (ねずみ返しの岩壁) which was form by Kurobe River.
There is only one track so when there’s a train coming from the opposite direction, both trains have to stop and wait as they change tracks at the stations.
Another power station you see on the route is the Kurobe River No. 2 Power Station (黒部川第二発電所).
At Kanetsuri station, the second stop along the way where tourists can disembark, we saw the never melting snow (mannenyuki 万年雪) near the station. This snow pile is created by avalanches during the winter and there is so much snow that it will not melt before snowing season starts again.
As you continue to enjoy the amazing scenery, you will soon pass Koyadaira Dam (小屋平ダム).
Even though summer’s color was not the prettiest for the gorge compared to the fall, I really loved the different shades of the green.
The ride started out in fairly comfortable weather; however, as you go deeper and deeper in the gorge, it gets really chilly when you go through the tunnels. Each tunnel feels colder than the last one. We did research beforehand and brought jackets with us to stay warm. I highly recommend bringing extra jackets or long pants. Some of the tunnels are quite long and it feels extra cold with the wind chill factor in open cars even during summer.
Keyakidaira Kurobe Gorge
After you arrive at the last stop, Keyakidaira Station, I recommend you to book and reserve your ticket back to Unazuki station at the ticket booth if you haven’t done so. We upgraded our tickets from the standard car to the special car (enclosed car).
We got to Keyakidaira station just around lunchtime, and one of the few dining options available in the restaurant above the station.
It offered standard Japanese comfort food: udon, soba, ramen, and curry rice. It also offered the local specialty Deep-fried White Shrimp (白海老のかき揚げ) over rice, udon, or soba.
You order your food and get a numbered ticket at the entrance first. Then bring your ticket to the kitchen counter in the back. They will call your number when the food is ready. Water and tea (both cold and hot) are free and self-service.
Our tempura shrimp udon was decent quality considering how remote the location was. Our kids enjoyed the kids’ curry menu.
At the station near the ticket booth, they had a large map of nearby points of interest and shows you the approximate time it takes to walk to those locations from the Keyakidaira station. It also tells you if specific spots were closed due to landslides.
The entire area is very prone to rock slides and landslides so do check what areas are open before exploring. Unfortunately, when we visited, the trail to both Sarutobikyo Gorge (猿飛峡) and Babadani Onsen (祖母谷温泉) was closed so we had very limited sights to see.
We were able to explore the viewing platform by the riverside. We crossed the Okukane Bridge (奥鐘橋) to look at Hitokui-iwa (人食い岩), the mouth shaped rock formation that looks like it’s going to swallow people up.
There was a gigantic boulder next to the trail that had just recently fallen.
After we exited the tunnel from Hitokui-iwa, you will see Meiken Onsen (名剣温泉).
For the adult, it’s ¥750 to enjoy the onsen (hot springs) and ¥1,300 if you would like to soak and rest for an additional 1.5 hrs inside (a towel is extra ¥250). Optionally you can stay overnight.
The footbath (足湯) by the Kawara Tenbodai/viewing platform (河原展望台) was also not working because landslides had cut off the hot spring.
On the hiking trail, one of the workers explained to us that the area is actually quite dangerous due to the frequent rock slides.
As the sun was setting, we decided to head back Unazuki station after spending about 2 hours in Keyakidaira. It was a good choice that we upgraded from the open-air car to the enclosed car as it started to rain…
Eating and Staying in Toyama
Izakaya Oyaji Toyama
As we made our way back to Toyama, we found a local Izakaya on Tabelog – Oyaji Toyama.
The restaurant is quite small but we were lucky and got seated in a private room. It was nice because that meant we didn’t have to deal with the smoking patrons.
They had a simple menu with today’s sashimi, grilled fish and sake on one side of the menu, and recommended dishes on the other.
The majority of the dishes are between 400-800 yen.
The Potato Salad and local vegetable, Kinjiso (金時草) Ohitashi Salad.
Beef Tongue Yakitori, Octopus Karaage, and Shungiku Gomaae.
Assorted Sashimi for two, with local fish like Gando (カンド) and Hyomi Maguro (氷見マグロ).
Grilled Gando Kama (I’m sorry if I scared you…).
Chicken Tempura with Daikon Radish & Ponzu Sauce.
Salmon and Ume Chazuke (Ochazuke) to end the meal.
The food was okay, definitely not great, and was a bit disappointing compared to Kuroya in Kanazawa (read the post). The seafood was fresh, but most dishes lacked the delicacy and sophistication we had expected from a highly reviewed restaurant.
Toyama Manten Hotel
After dinner, our hotel in Toyama was about a 10-minute walk from the station so we took the street trolley which stops right in front of the hotel.
Our room was very clean and pretty standard. It had 2 western beds and a tatami area that could fit 2 futons. Unlike a ryokan, you have to make the futon bed yourself in this business hotel.
What was nice about this particular hotel is that it had a large bath on the top floor for you to soak and relax, free for guests! But there’s also a spacious bathroom with a big tub inside the room.
So would I recommend the Kurobe Gorge Torokko train for you to visit, yes, most definitely! It was a fun experience for our family, taking in the beautiful gorge scenery which changes with seasons and the rustic trains take us back to a different time.
However, if we had known so many spots were closed at Keyakidaira, we would have gotten off at Kanetsuri station and save us the extra travel time and cost for riding the train.
The best time to visit Kurobe Gorge is after mid-October when the leaves start changing and the beautiful red and yellow colors decorate the green forest.
If you have any additional questions, here are some FAQs from the Toyama Tourism Association.
Now let’s continue our trip, next stop is Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (Snow Corridor)!
If you enjoy this post, check out my travel blog posts! I’ve shared my travel experiences in Sapporo, Asakusa, Kyoto, and other places in Japan. I hope my travel and eating guide is helpful for you when you visit Japan.
CHARITY UPDATE…
Each month 20% of proceeds from selling my eBook will go to charity. For June 2015, I donated to the International Rescue Committee. Thank you so much for those who purchased my eBook!
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thanks for sharing the beautiful countryside and tips for traveling…
Hi Elaine! Thank you so much for reading my post! 🙂
Many thank Nami for all your sharing – cooking and traveling. I really enjoy watching your cooking video in Facebook. I am very new to your ‘”One Cook Boom” blog, website and blog which I just registered. I am Hong Kong Chinese now live in London. I cook for my Dutch husband every night. Your cooking give me a lot of idea. I have shared your cooking video with my friends in London, Hong Kong and my mother in law in Netherlands – she likes pork belly a lot. My husband and I like Japan a lot. We had three weeks driving holiday in Kyoshu in Oct 2013 before we came to London. We always want to go back. I am really happy to see your blog. Once again many thanks for your sharing.
Hi Rita! Mr. JOC and I are very happy to hear you enjoy our videos! Thank you for watching them and giving us your kind feedback. 🙂 Thanks also for subscribing to my blog and sharing our site with your friends and family. We’re hoping to visit Kyushu either next year or the year after. I’m jealous you could travel there for 3 weeks! 🙂
Many thanks for your detail and nice travelreport! Realy beautiful countryside, I would like to visit. Greatings from Munich!
Hi Thomas! Thank you for reading the blog post. It’s my pleasure to share our experience from our trips in Japan. 🙂
This is fantastic, thanks for sharing! I’m hoping to visit Japan again in a few years, when my little girl is a bit older.
Hi Matt! I’m glad to hear you enjoyed the post. Thank you for reading! It’ll be a lot easier to travel when the kids are older… mainly because we have to use public transportation and we don’t have to carry a stroller or carry the baby with us… 😀 I think our trip got so much easier (and travel more) when my little one turned 6. I remember she still complained about a long walk when she was 5… 😀
I enjoy your travel blogs. I was in Japan a few weeks ago but stayed in the Tokyo area. We are already planning to go back in the Spring! Your blog gives us lots of options when traveling in Japan, thank you !!
Hi Susan! Spring (and fall) is a great time to visit Japan! I hope my travel posts will be helpful. 🙂 Thank you very much for reading my post!
I feel your pain with your kitchen remodeling. It always takes longer than expected! And is a whole lot messier. 🙁 Anyway, such a fun post! Wish I was there!
Hi John! Yes… it looks like the house won’t be ready before we go back (but I sort of expected it…). It looks like I will have to borrow my friends’ kitchen to shoot new videos. That’s one thing I wanted to avoid… Ahhh! Thank you for reading my post!
Hi Nami I remember I saw somewhere in your website about arranging western people to learn home cooking at Japanese family and advice for traveling in Japan however I can’t find the info anymore. Can you please point me to the related info in your website. Many thanks.
Hi Rita! Yes, I shared it on my email newsletter and Facebook. Please find more info from here:
http://bit.ly/NagomiVisit
I’ve been receiving great reviews from those who have tried this program and I’m truly happy to support their work. 🙂
Hope you enjoy it too!
Wow, you have me completely sold on Kurobe Gorge! It looks like so much fun with great views too. The tourism industry should be paying you for these travel posts—they are amazing. 😉 I also had a good laugh at your comment about the grilled gando kama. Can’t wait for your next travel post!
Thank you Kimmi! Haha if tourism notice my blog posts… yeah that sounds good. Maybe I get to travel for free! 😀 😀 😀
Heehee. I just have to apologize to readers who are vegetarians and who are not used to see a fish head on a dinner table (like most Americans). =P
Thank you for always reading my blog posts. xo
oh look at how fun and how beautiful everything is. What a blessing to be able to do that as a family:) I have missed being by here- I took a few weeks off for summer but I am back now and I am LOVING the new look!
I love your travel blog posts, and the hotel and restaurant reviews! The scenic shots are just gorgeous and now I want to ride some trains!
Thanks so much for reading this post, Donna! xoxo
This past fall we were in Japan for 4 weeks and among our activities …. other than visiting family in Kyushu….was Kuorbe Gorge. We stayed at Unazuki Onsen hotel The food was fabulous….a multi course Kaiseki meal with a spiney lobster… and the next night a wonderful beef meal dramatically prepared teppanaki style by a chef…..it was a fantastic experience.
This year we are going back for 4 weeks and are planning to stay at Minamisanriku Seaside Hotel……and then traveling further north to Akita Prefecture. I love traveling and visiting the different regions of Japan.
Hi Bond! We thought of staying in a ryokan in Unazuki Onsen, but we ended up not staying there as we had to go to Kurobe Tateyama Alpine Route. It was pretty crazy schedule for us. It would be nice to spend a few days there!! I’ve never been to Akita or any northern part of Japan (besides Hokkaido and Niigata). I hope you have a wonderful trip there. 🙂
What a wonderful vacation you’re having. I’m enjoying all your posts and will bookmark them for our next trip to Japan. Thanks and enjoy yourselves, Nami!
What a wonder trip Nami-san. I love these old fashion trains complete with the “doily lined seats”… LOL… I have never been to Kurobe Gorge but need to get this on my bucket list. Great country side and lovely photos, of course. Have a fun trip!
Fabulous sceneries, train trip and food! I’d love to visit such a dreamlike place.
Cheers,
Rosa
Dear Nami
Love your site on all recipes and know-hows, and your fantastic travel blogs with beautiful images and detailed write-ups on Japan. Gives me inspirations to work on my itinerary for my forthcoming trips.
Best wishes to you & family for Y2016 and years ahead.
Cheers!
Hi Jacqueline! Thank you so much for your kind feedback. I’m so happy to hear that you enjoy my blog. It’s exciting you’re going to Japan! Happy New Year to you as well! 🙂
Dear Nami,
Your travel blog is very informative which makes us to visit Kurobe Gorge in October. We intend to travel from Kanazawa to Kurobe Unazukionsen Station. By the way, could you advise is there any large luggage storage in Kurobe Unazukionsen station. Thanks.
Hi Eunice! Thanks so much for reading my travel post! October must be very pretty! Hope you get to see the foliage (not too early…). 🙂
I found a Japanese site that talks about the coin locker at Kurobe Unazukionsen Station.
http://guesthouse-hostel.com/unazuki-onsen-coin-locker/
Are these big enough for your luggage? They don’t have rows and rows of coin lockers here. In general, I recommend traveling with smaller suitcase (we usually carry 4 carry on size after traveling last year – this trip that you’re reading). We had hard time finding a big suitcase spot, and it’s so much easier each of family member carry small one. But if you have a small kid etc I know it’s not easy.
Hi Nami, thanks for your great posts! I’m doing some hiking in kamikochi and then have the option to do kurobe gorge railway or the tateyama alpine route but likely can’t do both. Considering this, which would you recommend as the better option if you had to choose just one? Thanks!
Hi Christine! Well, it really depends what you’re after. If you have children, definitely Kurobe Gorge railway. It was pretty fun. They do have hiking trails but I feel like it was more light hiking (not serious hike compared to alpine route). Which season are you going? Gorge is more different things to see than Alpine route… but Alpine route has more vast scenery… not too many small things. What kind of hiking are you interested in? I went during the snow corridor time… so what I did and what you can do could be different too… Both beautiful, but more “exciting” one can be Kurobe Gorge…
is this doable for a 1.5 day/1 day trip from tokyo? (early hokuriku, visit the gorge, stay the night and then back to tokyo the next morning/or maybe even come back on the late train the same day) i’ll be going in the first week of november. i presume the leave colors will still be there at the time? would be a shame to not do tateyama at the same time but i don’t think i’ll have time for that.
Hi Alex,
Based on Google Maps, it’s 3 hours from Tokyo Station to Unazukionsen Station so timing wise you would be able to make it.
There is actually nowhere to stay on the Gorge so you’ll ride the train to the top and back to find a ryokan to stay at. Keep in mind it is really cold towards the top of the gorge so we’re not sure if the leaves change colors at the same time as the rest of Japan.
The train also stopped running Nov 15th in 2017 so please plan accordingly. http://www.kurotetu.co.jp/en/fare/index.html
Mr. JOC
Hi Nami,
May I know how long it took you to walk the whole stretch of keyakidaira?
Did you go to Meidan Onsen? For ¥750, do you get to soak and bathe?
What time did you manage To reach Toyama at the end of the day?
Many Thanks for your advice.
Hi AI,
It didn’t take us long at all, if we recall correctly it was about 1 hour to explore the whole area and we did not go to the onsen. A few of the paths were blocked due to landslides.
It took us 2.5 hrs from Keyakidaira to Toyama.
Hi! I love your post! I have a question and maybe you can help me 🙂
You said that you weren’t sure if Kurobe Unazukionsen station has a large coin locker that fits your luggage, and that’s why you got off at Toyama station first to store the luggage. Did you check if Kurobe station has a luggage store? We are planning to do the Kurobe Gorge Train Route and then go to Tokyo.
TIA
There are some lockers but not many. See link below, it has the locker images.
https://www.kurobe-unazukionseneki.jp/information/coin_locker/
Hi, thank you for sharing your experiences for the places that you have visited, your photos are simply great. I would like to ask you if I would like to visit Nagoya in December, what are the places that I must visit, though I understand some places only operates until November only.
Many thanks.
Hi Fion,
We have detailed travel guides on spending time in Nagoya. We had a fun time there as a family. Let us know if you have any questions after checking the link below.
https://www.justonecookbook.com/tags/nagoya/
Hi Nami, thank you so much for sharing, it must be a very fun and educational tour for your 2 beautiful kids. My daughter and I are planning to visit the Science Museum, Nagoya Castle and also Shirakawago, the UNESCO world site which simply looks amazing. However, as it will happen in December, I hope that most of the places that we want to visit will be opened during the winter season. I understand that for Kurobe Gorge, there is no train service in December, so I’m contemplating should I visit. And the snow corridor is also not opened after Oct/Nov 🙁 I see that there are some local tours doing Shinshu Peach Picking but wondering will it be difficult to do it on our own. Do share with me if you have any experience going to farm for fruit picking. Many thanks 🙂
Hi Fion,
For Kurobe Gorge, I believe the tracks are probably covered by snow so it can’t run in December. When we rode the train it got unbelievably cold at the top even during the hot summer. I would recommend skipping.
Shinshu peach picking happens mostly in the summer so I am not sure if they’re still available when you visit. We’ve done peach picking before in Japan and it’s an okay experience. A car from the fruit shop takes us to the farm (5 min drive) and we are only allowed to pick 3 peaches per person. We had about 15 min to pick 3 peaches.
After picking the peaches and arriving back at the fruit shop, they served us additional peaches and grapes to relax. The whole thing took about 45 min to 1 hour.
Are you planning to spend time in Takayama? It’s a beautiful place to visit.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Hi Nami, yes, I will skip Kurobe Gorge and also fruit picking. And I will be staying at Takayama. Recently I bought the Japan Rail Ticket and the staff serving me from JTB commented that Takayama is just an old town and nothing much, though different. What are the places will you recommend in Takayama as the must-see? Thank you 😊
Hi Fion,
We have 2 detailed posts on Takayama and we loved our stay there. There are shrines and temples, outdoor markets, old restored building, sake tasting, and plenty of other things to do. We loved the atmosphere of the town and being able to walk around to explore it.
https://www.justonecookbook.com/takayama/
https://www.justonecookbook.com/takayama-2/
Hi Nami
Many thanks for the links, and your posts certainly provided good information and photos for me. Will visit some of your recommended places, and I believe I will enjoy my visit there this Dec with my daughter. 🙂
Have a wonderful trip, Fion!