What to Eat in Kyoto

Explore Kyoto’s culinary treasures with our guide to must-try dishes and local favorites. From the famed saba zushi (salt-cured mackerel sushi) and intricate kaiseki meals to matcha-flavored desserts, this former capital of Japan promises a truly memorable gastronomic experience.

As the former imperial capital of Japan, Kyoto boasts a sophisticated and diverse food culture that blends historic dishes with contemporary influences. You can find something to tantalize your taste buds in every corner of the city, whether in the bustling Nishiki Market or the ancient Geisha District of Gion. We’ll introduce 12 must-eat dishes in Kyoto and where to find them!

Nishin Soba (にしんにそば)

Nishin soba was originally created by the Hokkaido indigenous group, the Ainu, but was later brought to Kyoto by Kitamae ships and sold there. During times when transportation was difficult, herring was dried to preserve and extend its shelf life. The dried herring was then boiled in a broth of soy sauce, sake, and mirin, which slowly seeped into the fish, creating an intensely sweet and salty flavor.

The herring was originally served on top of udon noodles. Later, soba became the preferred choice due to its health benefits and ease of consumption. This shift led to the creation of nishin soba, a dish that has since flourished as one of Kyoto’s most beloved noodle dishes.

I tried my first-ever bowl of nishin soba while chasing the autumn leaves at Sanzen-in. It’s a simple dish with a lightly seasoned dashi stock, and the herring was packed with sweet and salty flavor.

Saba Zushi (鯖寿司)

Saba zushi refers to mackerel sushi that originated in Kyoto during the Edo period (1603-1868). Mackerel was caught in Wakasa Bay in Fukui, along the Sea of Japan, and transported to Kyoto, the old capital. However, the arduous journey took nearly three days, during which time the mackerel would spoil and become inedible. To preserve the mackerel, it was salted or grilled before being transported. Upon arriving in Kyoto, the salted mackerel was paired with vinegared rice to create saba zushi.

The road between Wakasa Bay and Kyoto became so well-known that it was labeled Saba Kaido, or “Mackerel Road.” It is said that the right amount of salt combined with the three-day journey created the perfect-tasting mackerel by the time it arrived in Kyoto. Today, Saba Kaido is registered as a Japan Heritage Site under the name “Wakasa’s Cultural Heritage of Travel Connecting the Sea and the Capital.

My Kyoto friend recommended “/S/ KAWAHIGASHI” to sample the famed saba zushi. Thanks to its salt curing, the mackerel had a delightful texture—neither too soft nor too tough. It was a pleasant surprise to find it subtly sweet, perfectly balancing the saltiness with the vinegared rice. Most importantly, it didn’t have an overpowering ‘fishy’ taste, which is a common concern with thick slices of mackerel.

The restaurant itself is small, with only 9 seats, and offers authentic Japanese cuisine using locally sourced ingredients. During lunch, they serve delicious bowls of udon, while at dinner, they offer smaller à la carte dishes. 

Kinshidon (きんし丼)

Anyone who enjoys unagi (eel) will absolutely love kinshidon. It is essentially an unadon (grilled eel rice bowl) with an added tamagoyaki-style egg that has been cut into thin shreds or ribbons. More recently, a new style of presentation has been introduced where the whole tamagoyaki is placed on top of the unagi bowl, making it easy to prepare and plate.

Where to Eat Kinshidon

Kinshidon is said to have originated in Osakayama Keneyo, just outside Kyoto on the west side. The historic shop, along with Kyogoku Kaneyo, is known to be one of the two most popular eel restaurants serving kinshidon in the area. However, with its popularity come long lines and difficulties with reservations.

There are other great choices, especially smaller shops dotted around the city. If you’re exploring the Gion area, head to Kanesho, a small restaurant tucked away in a back alley.

The quaint store is intimate, with counter seats that allow you to watch the chef masterfully grill the eel. Speaking of which, the eel is prepared Kansai style—slit down the belly and slowly grilled without steaming, resulting in a crispier texture. After being grilled to order, it is immediately covered with slices of egg, which acts like a lid to help the eel become even more tender. That is, until it reaches you, and it’s gone within 5 minutes because of how utterly delicious Kinshidon is.

The eel is crisp yet juicy and tender in the center. The house-made unagi sauce adds a sticky, deep, umami-packed flavor, which is also used to douse the white rice. The egg contributes a slight sweetness and fluffy texture, which pairs well with the unagi and rice. Along with the kinshidon, a small bowl of soup and tsukemono (Japanese pickles) help balance the rich unagi and sauce.

Kaiseki Cuisine (懐石料理)

Kyoto is the birthplace of Kaiseki cuisine, a multi-course meal that epitomizes fine dining in Japan. It originated in the 16th century as a supporting meal for tea ceremonies but has since evolved into a dining experience like no other.

Much like a tea ceremony, Kaiseki is as much about the aesthetics as the food. The ingredients are carefully chosen to reflect the season; shun-no-mono, or the freshest and best ingredients, are strictly used. Not only that, but the tableware and lacquerware are also curated to complement each dish, creating an array of foods that look like art.

You can find Kaiseki being served in dedicated restaurants, but the best way to enjoy it is at a ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn). After a relaxing soak in the ryokan’s onsen, you can savor the luxurious Kaiseki course meal in the dining room or in the comfort of your own room. For an authentic Japanese experience, a stay at a ryokan with a Kaiseki meal is an absolute must.

Obanzai (おばんざい)

While Kyoto is home to some of the country’s finest and most luxurious foods, don’t forget to enjoy some rustic and homely cooking known as Obanzai. This traditional style of cooking, native to Kyoto, uses local and seasonal ingredients and recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation.

Each dish uses simple seasonings to allow the natural flavors to shine through. Typically, vegetables and seafood are used, incorporating parts that would otherwise be discarded.

I stayed near Kyosami Nomura, a specialized Obanzai restaurant that opens early in the morning. For just 850 yen, you can pick up the “Obanzai Set,” which includes six small dishes of your choice, rice, and miso soup. From the pickles and tofu to the simmered mackerel, all the dishes were lightly seasoned, perfect for breakfast.

Yuba (ゆば)

Continuing with delicious, healthy foods, yuba (tofu skin) is next on our list.

To make yuba, soybeans are first soaked in water to soften, then ground into a pulp, heated, and strained through a cotton bag to produce soy milk. The soy milk is then gently heated to concentrate, forming a thin skin on the surface, which results in yuba.

It is believed that Chinese Zen monks introduced yuba to the local Kyoto people over 1,200 years ago. This humble food not only found its way into households but also became a vital protein source for Buddhist monks who adhered to a strict vegetarian diet.

Compared to regular tofu, yuba is much denser and has a bouncy texture. It can be dried, cooked in nabe (hot pot), or used in noodle dishes such as soba and udon. You can find yuba in many restaurants throughout Kyoto, some dedicated to it and others offering a sample of the thin tofu.

In Kiyomizu-dera, the iconic temple located in the wooded hills east of Kyoto, there is a restaurant called Yubasen that specializes in yuba meals. Their set menu includes yuba prepared in six different ways, from deep-fried and simmered to lightly seasoned with dressings. For a memorable dining experience in Kyoto, I highly recommend visiting these specialty restaurants!

Gyukatsu (牛カツ)

Gyukatsu has taken Japan by storm since the mid-2010s. While tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet) was the preferred dish for centuries, especially in Tokyo, a more prominent beef-eating culture in Kansai led to the birth of gyukatsu.

When you’re in Kyoto, consider visiting Kyoto Katsugyu, the country’s largest gyukatsu restaurant chain. Here, you can choose from a variety of beef cuts, including sirloin and tongue, or opt for luxurious wagyu if you’re in the mood for something extra special.

The preferred cut is breadcrumbed and deep-fried to be crispy on the outside and rare on the inside. When it arrives at the table, you can cook each slice of beef on the mini candle-lit hot plate to your liking.

Along with the gyukatsu, you’ll receive a portion of shredded cabbage, rice, soup, and a variety of dipping sauces to enjoy with the beef.

Kyoto Ramen (京都ラーメン)

Although Kyoto does not have a distinct ramen flavor like tonkotsu in Hakata or miso in Sapporo, it is known for its rich broth made from pork or chicken bones, typically flavored with soy sauce. In recent years, the growth of ramen shops has introduced variations of “Kyoto Ramen,” with some incorporating shellfish, dried sardines, and bone powder.

Craving a bowl of ramen? Then, you must head to downtown Kyoto to visit Inoichi. It might be hard to justify lining up for a bowl of ramen, but Inoichi is an exception. Here, they take the classic soy sauce-flavored ramen and elevate it to the next level.

Inoichi Ramen

The broth is the heart and soul of every ramen dish, and the dashi-based broth at Inoichi will have you licking the bowl clean. The soup is made with kelp and various dried fish, including sardines and bonito, and is flavored with either white or black soy sauce.

I chose the black soy sauce for a stronger punch. For a broth that uses no meat products, it is deep, flavorful, and delicious yet not overwhelming like many other bowls of ramen. The noodles are straight with a delightful bite, reminiscent of a Chinese-style wonton noodle bowl. Everything from the soy-marinated egg to the bamboo shoots and the melt-in-the-mouth chashu pork was to die for. As you savor one of the most delicious bowls of ramen, you can add toppings, including kelp, yuzu zest, and kuro-shichimi (black seven-spice pepper).

To top it all off, you can enjoy a bowl of rice garnished with freshly shaved bonito flakes and a raw egg yolk! There’s something special about freshly shaved bonito flakes that simply can’t be matched by the pre-packaged versions. The umami-packed flavor and delicate texture of the fresh flakes add an extra layer of richness to the dish, making it a standout experience.

Yes, you may have to line up (for quite a while) to get in, but Inoshi is well worth the visit. 

Matcha Desserts

Kyoto is Japan’s matcha capital, thanks to Uji, the green tea and matcha-making mecca. The southern region of Kyoto, Yamashiro, is the birthplace of green tea varieties such as gyokuro, matcha, and sencha, which date back over 800 years. Today, you can savor the rich flavors of matcha in various sweets and desserts throughout Kyoto!

Matcha Animitsu & Wagashi (あんみつ＆和菓子)

What better way to indulge in matcha than to visit Uji itself? We have a complete guide on what to do in Uji, so please check it out! 

After exploring the area’s rich history and stunning tea fields, head to Fukujuen Uji to indulge in matcha anmitsu—made from small cubes of agar jelly known as kanten, red bean paste, mochi, various fruits, beans, and matcha ice cream. You can pour the sweet matcha sauce on top for added sweetness and earthiness. 

Another activity you’ll need to experience in Uji is a traditional Japanese tea ceremony at Tiahoan. This quintessential Japanese experience is a must-try, especially in the mecca of matcha. You’ll admire the elegance, beauty, and precision of every movement as the kimono-clad staff prepares the perfect bowl of matcha. The matcha is earthy and sweet, pairing perfectly with the small serving of wagashi on the side.

Afterward, you can even have your own go at making matcha the traditional way!

Matcha Parfait (抹茶パフェ)

There’s nothing more luxurious than tucking into a giant glass of parfait at one of Kyoto’s most prestigious tea shops, Gion Tsujiri. After tea shopping on the first floor, head upstairs to Saryo Tsujiri, where you can find a host of tea-flavored desserts and savory dishes. From dango and green tea soba noodles, this is the place to experience matcha in the heart of Kyoto.

The café’s parfaits are their star sellers. The Tsujiri Parfait is a matcha treasure trove, featuring jelly, ice cream, and chestnuts. If you’re a cake lover, try the Matcha Castella Parfait or the Hojicha (roasted green tea) Parfait for a more nutty, almost chocolate-like flavor. You’ll be in for a treat no matter which parfait you choose!

Matcha Zenzai (抹茶ぜんざい)

Another classic Japanese dessert traditionally enjoyed at the turn of the year is zenzai. But since we’re in Kyoto, it has to be matcha-flavored. Zenzai is a dessert soup made from azuki beans, served with mochi (rice cakes) or shiratama dango (glutinous rice flour dumplings). The addition of sweet and earthy matcha elevates this already delicious dessert into a refined dish that reflects the taste and heritage of Kyoto.

When exploring Kyoto, be sure to visit Kifune Shrine, one of the city’s most important shrines. This revered shrine is dedicated to the God of Water and is the head of two thousand water god shrines across Japan.

The picturesque walk up to the shrine is lined with ryokans, restaurants, and cafés, perfect for enjoying a light meal or snack. At Kifune Club, you can savor their matcha zenzai, topped with toasted mochi. It’s delectably sweet with a hint of earthy bitterness from the matcha, making it a great pit stop during your trek to the shrine. It also comes with a small portion of salted kombu strips, which helps balance the dish’s sweetness.

Warabi Mochi (わらびもち)

Warabi Mochi is made of warabi, or bracken starch. Bracken is a type of fern, provides the starch from its rhizomes (underground stems). Compared to mochi made from glutinous rice, warabi mochi has a more jelly-like texture that is both refreshing and pleasant to eat.

The famous geisha district of Gion has countless historic restaurants and cafés where you can indulge in Kyoto’s finest sweets. Gion Tokuya is one such place, serving hon warabimochi made with domestically produced hon-warabiko (bracken starch) and refined Japanese sugar. This was by far the smoothest and most texturally pleasing warabi mochi I have ever had. The kinako adds a nutty sweetness, while the kuromitsu provides a light molasses flavor that is irresistibly addictive.

Aside from warabi mochi, they offer anmitsu, zenzai, and many other desserts. Make the most of your visit to Gion Tokuya, as it is often busy, with lines sometimes lasting over an hour!

Tarte Tatin (タルトタタン)

Evidently, tarte tatin is by no means an essential Kyoto dish, but La Voiture is well worth a visit. Originally a French restaurant, La Voiture was transformed into a specialty café for apple tarte tatin in 1981. Owner Yuri Matsunaga and her husband first experienced the famous apple dessert in France decades ago. Upon returning to Japan, they decided to recreate it, serving just two tarts a day.

Now, the charming café is renowned for its tarte tatin and was even awarded a certificate from the Tarte Tatin Lovers Association in France in 2006. Its kissaten (Japanese-style tea room) is homely and inviting, and the tarte tatin is just as delightful.

To create their beloved tarte tatin, fuji apples are boiled for five hours, creating a deep caramelized color and a sweet yet almost savory flavor. The side of yogurt sauce helps cut through the tart’s richness, and when paired with a freshly brewed cup of coffee, it makes for the perfect afternoon treat.

Any visitor to Kyoto will find that the city brims with unforgettable experiences and remarkable food at every turn. Each dish reveals a piece of Kyoto’s rich cultural tapestry, inviting you to savor not just the flavors but the very essence of this historic city.

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