Relax in hot springs and open-air bath, take a traditional boat tour down Kinugawa River and enjoy Japanese ryokan hospitality at Kinugawa Onsen.
During our family’s trip to Nikko, besides the famous shrines, we also visited Edo Wonderland and Tobu World amusement parks. Instead of staying near the shrines west of Nikko City, we stayed at Kinugawa Onsen hot spring resort town (鬼怒川温泉) since it was closer to the attractions. The hot springs at Kinugawa Onsen date back 300 years and was a popular destination during the Japan economy bubble years.
Where is Kinugawa Onsen
Kinugawa Onsen is north of Tokyo and it takes 2.5 hrs by train or 2 hrs by car. Besides the nearby amusement parks, there are a few other activities do in the hot springs town. In case you’re wondering, the word onsen (温泉) means hot springs in Japanese.

The hot springs town is named after Kinugawa River which runs through it and Kinugawa (鬼怒川) translates to the angry demon river in Japanese.

Kinugawaonsen Station
One of the interesting ways you can get to Kinugawa Onsen is by riding the steam locomotive Taiju from Shimo-Imaichi Station to Kinugawaonsen Station.


At the Kinugawaonsen station, there is a railway turntable to rotate the steam locomotive so it can head back to Shimo-Imaichi Station.

While waiting at the station, you can enjoy free onsen footbath.

Kinugawa River Boat Ride

One of the activities is visitors can enjoy is riding a traditional wooden boat down the Kinugawa River. You can find the boat cruise on Google by searching Kinugawa Line Down (鬼怒川ライン下り).
The boat ride, for the most part, is pretty calm but at times the rapids become slightly stronger and splash up the side of the boat. During those times, the riders are able to pull up a plastic tarp on the side of the boat so we wouldn’t get wet.
The scenery along the river was beautiful and serene. As we floated down the emerald green river, there are interesting rock formation and gorgeous landscape for viewing.

After the boat ride, we waited at the rest stop for a bit and a shuttle returned us to where we embarked.
Kinugawa Onsen Ropeway
The second activity we did was riding the Monkey Mountain Kinugawa Onsen Ropeway (鬼怒川温泉ロープウェイ). The ropeway was located conveniently close to the hot springs resorts and it’s within walking distance.

The view from the top of the ropeway was quite cool, we could see the Kinugawa Onsen town in the valley surrounded by hilly mountains on both sides.

The kids had a blast as there was a monkey enclosure and visitors are allowed to feed the monkeys.
Hot Springs and Kaiseki Ryori at Asaya Hotel
We spent 2 nights at Kinugawa Onsen with both nights at Asaya Hotel. The hotel dates back to 1800 but the current building is probably from the ’70s. From the exterior, it’s hard to tell what it actually looks like inside.
Decor
What’s interesting is the hotel might look like a three to four-story building from outside but it’s actually 12 floors. As it’s built on a hillside the hotel lobby is actually the 6th floor when you enter. Another intriguing design is you don’t typically see Japanese hot springs hotels with an open central atrium and you can see the inside of the whole building. Down on the bottom floor, there is a fountain and a large organ which plays music.
The hotel was clean and well kept but the decor is a bit outdated. We booked a standard Japanese room which is a sitting room during the day and converts to the bedroom at night. The hotel staff converts the room and make the beds while you eat dinner.

From our room balcony, we could see the Kinugawa River and other resort hotels across the river.

Hot Springs
The hot springs facilities at Asaya Hotel was quite good. There is a rooftop onsen offering majestic views of the valley while you bath. The rooftop onsen alternates for male and female use based on the time of the day. Besides that, there is a second dedicated hot springs facility for male and female on the first floor. The onsen facilities are large and in great condition. There was a shampoo bar on the first floor hot springs for guests to try different shampoo and conditioners in addition to the hotel’s standard offering.
Food
We had two dinners and two breakfast at Asaya Hotel during our stay. Both dinners were kaiseki ryori with beef shabu shabu as the main course the first night and grilled beef the second night. Dinner the first night was very disappointing because the quality was subpar. Along with beef shabu shabu the first night’s meal also had assorted tempura, sashimi, grilled ayu, but no dish stood out to us.


The dinner on the second night made up for the first night, with more interesting ingredients like sea snails, sea bream sashimi, and stuff chicken inside eggplant. It was so drastically different we actually ask the staff if the same chef had prepared both meals and the staff confirmed he had. The second night’s dinner was delicious and overall we were satisfied with the food.



For desserts both night, there was a dessert bar where you can try as many sweets as you want.

Breakfast both days were a buffet and it was excellent. There were plenty of both western and Japanese selections, easily over 50 choices of food. The dishes were laid out in different islands so the line to grab food was quick and didn’t get too crowded.

The best thing at breakfast was the house special french toast. It was amazingly good with soft milky texture on the inside and crispy on the outside. The chef was kind enough to share the recipe with us and we’ve shared the french toast recipe on the blog. The feedback we got from JOC readers who’ve made it was really positive so give it a try if you love french toasts.

The Ruins of Kinugawa Onsen
There was one surprise we didn’t expect in Kinugawa Onsen and it’s a bit creepy. Across the river, from the Asaya Hotel, we saw many empty buildings with missing and broken windows, exposed walls, and they looked completely ruined and ready to be a set for horror movies. It’s unusual to see such a sight in Japan and especially in a resort area.
We got curious and learned that many abandoned buildings were hotel developments that were stopped as funding ran out. Kinugawa Onsen area was devastated by the decreasing number of visitors to the area starting from the 1990s to 2016.
The reasons were multiple folds including the Japanese bubble economy collapsing, the bankruptcy of a prominent local bank, as well as the Great Tohoku Earthquake. The good news is there is a revived effort in recent years to bring more visitors to the area including updating the hotels, new resorts opening, and convenient direct transportation from large cities.

If you want to get away from the crowd and go off the beaten path, visit Kinugawa Onsen on your trip to Nikko. We would recommend spending one day and one night relaxing in the hot springs, checking out local attractions, and then head over to Nikko to see the shrines.
[…] Kinugawa Onsen 鬼怒川温泉 […]
[…] Kinugawa Onsen 鬼怒川温泉 […]
[…] Chill out in sizzling springs and open-air tub, take a standard boat tour down Kinugawa River and luxuriate in Japanese ryokan hospitality at Kinugawa Onsen.Throughout our household’s journey to Nikko, in addition to the well-known shrines, we additionally visited Edo Wonderland and Tobu World amusement parks. As an alternative of staying close to the shrines west of Nikko Metropolis, we stayed at Kinugawa Onsen sizzling spring resort city (鬼怒川温泉) because it was nearer to the sights. The recent springs at Kinugawa Onsen date again 300 years and was a well-liked vacation spot in the course of the Japan economic system bubble years.The place is Kinugawa OnsenKinugawa Onsen is north of Tokyo and it takes 2.5 hrs by prepare or 2 hrs by automotive. In addition to the close by amusement parks, there are a number of different actions do within the sizzling springs city. In case you’re questioning, the phrase onsen (温泉) means sizzling springs in Japanese.Kinu-Tateiwa-Otsuribashi Suspension BridgeThe sizzling springs city is known as after Kinugawa River which runs via it and Kinugawa (鬼怒川) interprets to the offended demon river in Japanese. The Kinugawa RiverKinugawaonsen StationOne of the attention-grabbing methods you may get to Kinugawa Onsen is by using the steam locomotive Taiju from Shimo-Imaichi Station to Kinugawaonsen Station.Statue of Kinuta at Kinugawa Onsen stationPicture of steam locomotive TaijuAt the Kinugawaonsen station, there’s a railway turntable to rotate the steam locomotive so it may well head again to Shimo-Imaichi Station. Locomotive turntableWhile ready on the station, you possibly can take pleasure in free onsen footbath.Free foot tub on the stationKinugawa River Boat RideKinugawa Line Down Boat RideOne of the actions is guests can take pleasure in is using a standard wood boat down the Kinugawa River. You’ll find the boat cruise on Google by looking Kinugawa Line Down (鬼怒川ライン下り). The boat journey, for probably the most half, is fairly calm however at instances the rapids turn into barely stronger and splash up the aspect of the boat. Throughout these instances, the riders are in a position to pull up a plastic tarp on the aspect of the boat so we wouldn’t get moist.The surroundings alongside the river was stunning and serene. As we floated down the emerald inexperienced river, there are attention-grabbing rock formation and lovely panorama for viewing.The surroundings from the Kinugawa boat rideAfter the boat journey, we waited on the relaxation cease for a bit and a shuttle returned us to the place we embarked.Kinugawa Onsen RopewayThe second exercise we did was using the Monkey Mountain Kinugawa Onsen Ropeway (鬼怒川温泉ロープウェイ). The ropeway was positioned conveniently near the recent springs resorts and it’s inside strolling distance.Entrance for Kinugawa Onsen ropewayThe view from the highest of the ropeway was fairly cool, we might see the Kinugawa Onsen city within the valley surrounded by hilly mountains on either side.View of Kinugawa Onsen resort townThe youngsters had a blast as there was a monkey enclosure and guests are allowed to feed the monkeys.Scorching Springs and Kaiseki Ryori at Asaya HotelWe spent 2 nights at Kinugawa Onsen with each nights at Asaya Resort. The resort dates again to 1800 however the present constructing might be from the ’70s. From the outside, it’s onerous to inform what it really appears like inside.DecorWhat’s attention-grabbing is the resort would possibly appear to be a 3 to four-story constructing from exterior but it surely’s really 12 flooring. Because it’s constructed on a hillside the resort foyer is definitely the sixth flooring if you enter. One other intriguing design is you don’t usually see Japanese sizzling springs inns with an open central atrium and you may see the within of the entire constructing. Down on the underside flooring, there’s a fountain and a big organ which performs music.The resort was clear and properly stored however the decor is a bit outdated. We booked a typical Japanese room which is a sitting room in the course of the day and converts to the bed room at evening. The resort workers converts the room and make the beds when you eat dinner.Normal Japanese room at Asaya hotelFrom our room balcony, we might see the Kinugawa River and different resort inns throughout the river.View from the room balconyHot SpringsThe sizzling springs services at Asaya Resort was fairly good. There’s a rooftop onsen providing majestic views of the valley whereas you bathroom. The rooftop onsen alternates for female and male use primarily based on the time of the day. In addition to that, there’s a second devoted sizzling springs facility for female and male on the primary flooring. The onsen services are giant and in nice situation. There was a shampoo bar on the primary flooring sizzling springs for visitors to strive completely different shampoo and conditioners along with the resort’s customary providing.FoodWe had two dinners and two breakfast at Asaya Resort throughout our keep. Each dinners had been kaiseki ryori with beef shabu shabu as the principle course the primary evening and grilled beef the second evening. Dinner the primary evening was very disappointing as a result of the standard was subpar. Together with beef shabu shabu the primary evening’s meal additionally had assorted tempura, sashimi, grilled ayu, however no dish stood out to us.Assorted sashimiBeef shabu shabuThe dinner on the second evening made up for the primary evening, with extra attention-grabbing components like sea snails, sea bream sashimi, and stuff hen inside eggplant. It was so drastically completely different we really ask the workers if the identical chef had ready each meals and the workers confirmed he had. The second evening’s dinner was scrumptious and general we had been happy with the meals.Sea snailSea bream sashimiStuff eggplantFor desserts each evening, there was a dessert bar the place you possibly can strive as many sweets as you need.Dessert barBreakfast each days had been a buffet and it was wonderful. There have been loads of each western and Japanese picks, simply over 50 selections of meals. The dishes had been specified by completely different islands so the road to seize meals was fast and didn’t get too crowded.Breakfast buffetThe smartest thing at breakfast was the home particular french toast. It was amazingly good with smooth milky texture on the within and crispy on the surface. The chef was form sufficient to share the recipe with us and we’ve shared the french toast recipe on the weblog. The suggestions we acquired from JOC readers who’ve made it was actually constructive so give it a strive for those who love french toasts.French toastThe Ruins of Kinugawa OnsenThere was one shock we didn’t count on in Kinugawa Onsen and it’s a bit creepy. Throughout the river, from the Asaya Resort, we noticed many empty buildings with lacking and damaged home windows, uncovered partitions, and so they appeared fully ruined and able to be a set for horror films. It’s uncommon to see such a sight in Japan and particularly in a resort space.We acquired curious and realized that many deserted buildings had been resort developments that had been stopped as funding ran out. Kinugawa Onsen space was devastated by the reducing variety of guests to the world ranging from the 1990s to 2016.The explanations had been a number of folds together with the Japanese bubble economic system collapsing, the chapter of a outstanding native financial institution, in addition to the Nice Tohoku Earthquake. The excellent news is there’s a revived effort lately to deliver extra guests to the world together with updating the inns, new resorts opening, and handy direct transportation from giant cities.Buildings with damaged home windows and abandonedIf you wish to get away from the gang and go off the crushed path, go to Kinugawa Onsen in your journey to Nikko. We’d advocate spending someday and one evening stress-free within the sizzling springs, testing native sights, after which head over to Nikko to see the shrines.Nikko Journey GuideEdo Wonderland Nikko Edomura 日光江戸村Kinugawa Onsen 鬼怒川温泉Tobu World Sq. 東武ワールドスクウェアNikko Tosho-gu 日光東照宮Places to go to in Nikko 日光Kegon Falls 華厳の滝Lake Chuzenji 中禅寺湖Oya Historical past Museum 大谷資料館 Supply hyperlink […]
[…] Loosen up in scorching springs and open-air tub, take a conventional boat tour down Kinugawa River and revel in Japanese ryokan hospitality at Kinugawa Onsen.Throughout our household’s journey to Nikko, in addition to the well-known shrines, we additionally visited Edo Wonderland and Tobu World amusement parks. As a substitute of staying close to the shrines west of Nikko Metropolis, we stayed at Kinugawa Onsen scorching spring resort city (鬼怒川温泉) because it was nearer to the sights. The recent springs at Kinugawa Onsen date again 300 years and was a preferred vacation spot in the course of the Japan economic system bubble years.The place is Kinugawa OnsenKinugawa Onsen is north of Tokyo and it takes 2.5 hrs by prepare or 2 hrs by automobile. Moreover the close by amusement parks, there are a couple of different actions do within the scorching springs city. In case you’re questioning, the phrase onsen (温泉) means scorching springs in Japanese.Kinu-Tateiwa-Otsuribashi Suspension BridgeThe scorching springs city is known as after Kinugawa River which runs by it and Kinugawa (鬼怒川) interprets to the indignant demon river in Japanese. The Kinugawa RiverKinugawaonsen StationOne of the fascinating methods you may get to Kinugawa Onsen is by driving the steam locomotive Taiju from Shimo-Imaichi Station to Kinugawaonsen Station.Statue of Kinuta at Kinugawa Onsen stationPicture of steam locomotive TaijuAt the Kinugawaonsen station, there’s a railway turntable to rotate the steam locomotive so it may head again to Shimo-Imaichi Station. Locomotive turntableWhile ready on the station, you’ll be able to get pleasure from free onsen footbath.Free foot tub on the stationKinugawa River Boat RideKinugawa Line Down Boat RideOne of the actions is guests can get pleasure from is driving a conventional picket boat down the Kinugawa River. You’ll find the boat cruise on Google by looking out Kinugawa Line Down (鬼怒川ライン下り). The boat experience, for probably the most half, is fairly calm however at occasions the rapids turn into barely stronger and splash up the aspect of the boat. Throughout these occasions, the riders are in a position to pull up a plastic tarp on the aspect of the boat so we wouldn’t get moist.The surroundings alongside the river was lovely and serene. As we floated down the emerald inexperienced river, there are fascinating rock formation and lovely panorama for viewing.The surroundings from the Kinugawa boat rideAfter the boat experience, we waited on the relaxation cease for a bit and a shuttle returned us to the place we embarked.Kinugawa Onsen RopewayThe second exercise we did was driving the Monkey Mountain Kinugawa Onsen Ropeway (鬼怒川温泉ロープウェイ). The ropeway was situated conveniently near the new springs resorts and it’s inside strolling distance.Entrance for Kinugawa Onsen ropewayThe view from the highest of the ropeway was fairly cool, we might see the Kinugawa Onsen city within the valley surrounded by hilly mountains on each side.View of Kinugawa Onsen resort townThe children had a blast as there was a monkey enclosure and guests are allowed to feed the monkeys.Scorching Springs and Kaiseki Ryori at Asaya HotelWe spent 2 nights at Kinugawa Onsen with each nights at Asaya Lodge. The lodge dates again to 1800 however the present constructing might be from the ’70s. From the outside, it’s laborious to inform what it really seems to be like inside.DecorWhat’s fascinating is the lodge would possibly seem like a 3 to four-story constructing from outdoors however it’s really 12 flooring. Because it’s constructed on a hillside the lodge foyer is definitely the sixth flooring whenever you enter. One other intriguing design is you don’t usually see Japanese scorching springs inns with an open central atrium and you may see the within of the entire constructing. Down on the underside flooring, there’s a fountain and a big organ which performs music.The lodge was clear and nicely stored however the decor is a bit outdated. We booked a typical Japanese room which is a sitting room in the course of the day and converts to the bed room at evening. The lodge employees converts the room and make the beds whilst you eat dinner.Commonplace Japanese room at Asaya hotelFrom our room balcony, we might see the Kinugawa River and different resort inns throughout the river.View from the room balconyHot SpringsThe scorching springs amenities at Asaya Lodge was fairly good. There’s a rooftop onsen providing majestic views of the valley whereas you bathroom. The rooftop onsen alternates for female and male use based mostly on the time of the day. Moreover that, there’s a second devoted scorching springs facility for female and male on the primary flooring. The onsen amenities are massive and in nice situation. There was a shampoo bar on the primary flooring scorching springs for visitors to strive completely different shampoo and conditioners along with the lodge’s commonplace providing.FoodWe had two dinners and two breakfast at Asaya Lodge throughout our keep. Each dinners have been kaiseki ryori with beef shabu shabu as the principle course the primary evening and grilled beef the second evening. Dinner the primary evening was very disappointing as a result of the standard was subpar. Together with beef shabu shabu the primary evening’s meal additionally had assorted tempura, sashimi, grilled ayu, however no dish stood out to us.Assorted sashimiBeef shabu shabuThe dinner on the second evening made up for the primary evening, with extra fascinating components like sea snails, sea bream sashimi, and stuff rooster inside eggplant. It was so drastically completely different we really ask the employees if the identical chef had ready each meals and the employees confirmed he had. The second evening’s dinner was scrumptious and general we have been glad with the meals.Sea snailSea bream sashimiStuff eggplantFor desserts each evening, there was a dessert bar the place you’ll be able to strive as many sweets as you need.Dessert barBreakfast each days have been a buffet and it was wonderful. There have been loads of each western and Japanese picks, simply over 50 selections of meals. The dishes have been specified by completely different islands so the road to seize meals was fast and didn’t get too crowded.Breakfast buffetThe smartest thing at breakfast was the home particular french toast. It was amazingly good with delicate milky texture on the within and crispy on the skin. The chef was sort sufficient to share the recipe with us and we’ve shared the french toast recipe on the weblog. The suggestions we bought from JOC readers who’ve made it was actually optimistic so give it a strive when you love french toasts.French toastThe Ruins of Kinugawa OnsenThere was one shock we didn’t count on in Kinugawa Onsen and it’s a bit creepy. Throughout the river, from the Asaya Lodge, we noticed many empty buildings with lacking and damaged home windows, uncovered partitions, they usually regarded fully ruined and able to be a set for horror motion pictures. It’s uncommon to see such a sight in Japan and particularly in a resort space.We bought curious and realized that many deserted buildings have been lodge developments that have been stopped as funding ran out. Kinugawa Onsen space was devastated by the lowering variety of guests to the realm ranging from the 1990s to 2016.The explanations have been a number of folds together with the Japanese bubble economic system collapsing, the chapter of a outstanding native financial institution, in addition to the Nice Tohoku Earthquake. The excellent news is there’s a revived effort in recent times to carry extra guests to the realm together with updating the inns, new resorts opening, and handy direct transportation from massive cities.Buildings with damaged home windows and abandonedIf you wish to get away from the group and go off the crushed path, go to Kinugawa Onsen in your journey to Nikko. We might advocate spending in the future and one evening stress-free within the scorching springs, trying out native sights, after which head over to Nikko to see the shrines.Nikko Journey GuideEdo Wonderland Nikko Edomura 日光江戸村Kinugawa Onsen 鬼怒川温泉Tobu World Sq. 東武ワールドスクウェアNikko Tosho-gu 日光東照宮Places to go to in Nikko 日光Kegon Falls 華厳の滝Lake Chuzenji 中禅寺湖Oya Historical past Museum 大谷資料館 Supply hyperlink […]
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Thank you for the trouble you take with your informative, well illustrated guides. It must take a lot of your time and I know we all appreciate it!
Hi Sally,
Rather than generic descriptions, we want our guide to be helpful if you indeed plan on going to visit. We will be honest with our opinion on things to do and where to stay so our readers can benefit from our experience.
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