Dining at Ukai Toriyama is not just a meal, it’s an entire sensory experience of true Japanese dining hidden in the hills of Mount Takao.
It’s been a while since I’ve shared a restaurant review here on Just One Cookbook, and I am very excited to share today’s restaurant – Ukai Toriyama (うかい鳥山) with you. As you may know, traditional Japanese food is not just about the flavors of the food. In Japan, when we cook and serve meals for our family, we consider what dishes should be served, what the food pairing works, and what ingredients to use to have all the colors for a healthy meal.
Ukai Toriyama – the Quintessential Japanese Experience
For Japanese restaurants, they go beyond just the presentation and flavors. A lot of thoughts are put into consideration for the ambiance, the service, usage of the best seasonal ingredients that are available for the customers. If you are planning to travel to Tokyo and has a day to get away, I highly recommend experiencing Ukai Toriyama, a restaurant like no other. Let me share with you my amazing meal there last time I visited with my family.
Where is Ukai Toriyama?
I actually learned about Ukai Toriyama from Mr. JOC. He went with friends on one of his trips to Japan and he kept saying we needed to go whenever we visit Japan. Last summer, to celebrate father’s day with my dad and Mr. JOC, we made it into a family excursion. From where we live in Yokohama, it’s about a 1 hour drive depending on the traffic condition. If I use public transportation, it would take 2 hours each way and that’s part of the reason why we didn’t visit sooner.
So what’s so special about this restaurant? There are quite a few surprises. First of all, if it’s not the biggest restaurant in Japan it definitely is one of the largest. Ukai Toriyama is located west of Tokyo near Hachioji, situated in dense forests near the foot of Mount Takao (高尾山). The restaurant itself is over 200,000 square feet (18,580 square meters) with beautiful gardens and dotted by individual buildings and dining rooms.
If you arrive early and have some time, go across the street from the main entrance of the restaurant. Just up the slope there is a Gassho Style (合掌造り) house built at the location with antiques and tools on display. It was really cool for us to see it again after visiting Shirakawa-go 白川郷 not long ago.
Beautiful Gardens of Ukai Toriyama
As you enter the main entrance, there’s a counter where the host greets you and a sitting area where you can wait. One of the unique characteristics about Ukai Toriyama is that most of the dining rooms are private. While you’re waiting you can walk around the beautiful large garden.
We walked around the garden before our meal as we were waiting and took lots of family pictures. Hopefully my children will remember this one day as they look at the pictures. The garden of the restaurant extends from the front all the way to the back. It’s breathtaking as you walk around. Every flower, every plant, water features, bridge, and all the elements made me feel like I’m traveled to another time.
Other interesting things we observed was the fish grill house, where the ayu fish (鮎) were being expertly prepared for guests, and a Japanese wedding that was happening.
After waiting for about 15 min, our room is ready and our host lead us to our private dining room. It was on the second floor of one of the building so we had a great view of the garden and the surroundings.
The Food at Ukai Toriyama
The menu is simple and straight forward at Ukai Toriyama, there are 5 courses you can select from (as of June 2016):
- Char-grilled Chicken Course ¥5,830
- Char-grilled Chicken and Carp Sashimi (佐久鯉) Course ¥6,700
- Char-grilled Beef and Chicken Course ¥8,860
- Stone-grilled Beef Course ¥9,500
- Char-grilled Beef Course ¥11,880
As there were 4 adults, we opted for a mixture of beef/chicken course and the chicken/carp sashimi course so we could try a bit of everything.
The first dish that came out was soft sesame tofu with sesame sauce, the tofu had a mochi like texture and the sauce was smooth and super flavorful. The tofu with nutty sesame sauce was served on a dark dish which contrasted well. The small bits of crushed sesame on top added a touch of elegance to the dish.
The second dish was a cold dish, with delicious duck slices. As you chew on the duck, each bite has more and more flavor that comes out. The dish was served with shredded gobo and eggplants, cooked perfectly so each ingredient retained its texture. Everything was soaked in a delicious dashi.
The next dish was a simple clear soup but it was deceivingly flavorful. The mountain vegetable was not overcooked and slightly crisp. Besides the mountain vegetables, there were tender pieces of chicken in the soup. The chicken was drenched in rice flour to keep the moisture and juice, it was ridiculously soft. As you slowly sip the soup, The vegetable and chicken dashi had many layers of taste.
On to the sashimi course – the carp sashimi was just fabulous. The texture was firm and slightly crisp, tasted super fresh, and after dipping in miso with yuzu kosho (柚子胡椒), it had a delightful sweet and slightly spicy taste and finish.
Now the main event, the barbeque beef and chicken. I love the attention to detail the restaurant thinks about, you can see below even the sand for the grill is perfectly raked.
Hmm… what can I say about the meat… OMG! The chicken was juicy and perfect texture. You know when you bite into a piece of chicken, and the juice flows out from the meat… it was just like that. Tip – remember to dip in the sauce just before done so it doesn’t burn. The beef simply melts inside your mouth and worked really well with their paired soy sauce. The meat was sweet and super tender. The only feedback I have is – I WANT MORE!
As we’re winding down, the grilled fish is served next. The ayu was paired with a vinegar sauce, the entire fish is edible from head to tail and it was super fresh. Keeping with the fresh ingredient and flavor theme, it was just slightly salted and the meat was sweet. I know sweet is a weird way to describe fish but you have to taste it to believe me.
Besides the protein, there were also vegetables for barbeque. The fresh shiitake crunches under your teeth, releasing its woodsy flavor bite by bite. It almost tastes like oyster mushroom.
Lastly the rice dish to complete the Japanese meal. The chicken soboro had finely minced chicken just slightly flavored, with thinly sliced ginger on top. The rice is perfectly cooked and kept hot with the cover (another thoughtful point for the restaurant). Who wants to eat cold rice right? The pickled radish (takuan) and cucumber were not too salty and contrasted well from the soft rice and the chicken with their crunchy texture. Along with the rice dish the miso soup had nameko mushroom with akadashi.
When the meal was over, it didn’t feel like we just had lunch. It was an experience we went through with our senses. The beauty we observed with our eyes, the sound of the river and water wheel, the smell of barbeque, the flavors we tasted.
I think Ukai Toriyama delivered a true Japanese dining experience. They allowed their guest to taste the freshness of the ingredients, and feel the care they put into every dish and the entire dining experience.
One more reason why I’m sharing this now is during the summer time, the restaurant releases thousands of fireflies at night while you’re dining creating a magical experience. The garden view is better during the day but if you want to experience the fireflies it needs to be at night.
Access Information by Train:
On the Keio Line – From Shinjuku Station, get off at the last stop on the Keio Line, Takaosanguchi Station. Travel time from Shinjuku to Takaosanguchi is approximately 50~55 minutes on the Special Express or the Semi Special Express.
On the JR Chuo Line – Transfer to the Keio Line at JR Takao Station and get off at the next station, Takaosanguchi.
On the JR Yokohama Line – Transfer to the JR Chuo Line at Hachioji Station, transfer to the Keio Line at Takao Station, and get off at the next station, Takaosanguchi.
The restaurant shuttle runs daily from Takaosanguchi Station every 20 minutes between 10:00am and 08:00pm (On-the-hour, 20 and 40 past the hour).
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Sure would like to try it one day.
Thank you Al. You’d love this place. 🙂
I’m just curious about this:
aren’t Japan uses metric to measure something?
then, why do you use imperial system?
thank you~
NB: what is the name of this Font? It’s so beautiful.
Hi Yosi! Yes but I live in the US and majority of my readers are from the US so I often put imperial system (with metric info). I’ll add metric number in the post. 200,000 square feet is 18,580 square meters.
Oh, I see. I thought you live in Japan all the time. Thank you for replying me though.
Since my last visit to Japan I have become vegetarian (not vegan). I hope to find vegetarian options when we go out to eat. I know the Buddhist tradition is vegetarian….so I am hopeful. I do eat sea food…..so between that and fresh produce….and tofu….I should do ok.
Hi Bond! If you are Pescetarian it’s much easier to eat here in Japan than a vegetarian, I think. Since a lot of dishes are cooked in dashi (often both bonito and kombu), it is harder when you don’t eat seafood too (because of bonito). Shojin ryori is vegan and lot of dishes in Kyoto are based on vegetables too. But if you go to other cities, your choice will be seafood. 🙂
Hi Nami!
I live fifteen minutes from this place and we have probably been there at least fifteen times taking different guests from many different countries! It is beautiful in all seasons! Thanks for sharing this with your readers and as always thank you for your delicious recipes– my hubby thanks you too! Have a blessed time with your family in Japan!
Hi Carrie! Wow 15 mins? It’s such a nice place to visit guests too. Your guests are so lucky! I’m happy to hear you enjoy my recipes. Please send hello to your husband too! Thank you for reading my blog from Japan! 🙂
Dear Carrie, how lucky for you to live so near to such a beautiful place. Pls can yu recommend a not-too-expensive place to stay around the area as we are thinking of visiting Tokyo and rather stay for a night near the restaurant to have more time around the area.
Thx in advance.
Hi Christi! I use this site often to book (and compare with Japanese websites to compare the price – but written in Japanese)
http://www.japanican.com/en/hotel/list/13/1308/
Thank you very much for your kind reply.
Hi Christi,
Sorry to be so late to respond to you. As far as hotels near the restaurant, there are not very many–it is country! There are hotels, but they are love hotels and perhaps not appropriate for the visitor. You can access the restaurant by a restaurant bus from Takaosanguchi station on the Keio train line. There is a very small business hotel near Takao station, but probably no English. You would probably have better luck staying at a hotel near Hachioji station. From there, the restaurant and Mt. Takao are about 15 minutes by train. Hachioji is on a different train line–the chuo line, but you can walk about 15 minutes from Hachioji station area to access the keio line. Perhaps there are some hotels near Kitano which is a bit farther away, but on the same Keio line. Some hotels that look decent near Hachioji station are Hachioji urban hotel. I have never stayed there, but it looks ok and a good location. I have friends who stay at Keio plaza at Hachioji station, but perhaps it is a bit pricy. Sorry I can’t be much better help!
Thank you very much Carrie & Nami for your most helpful alert & replies. We unknowingly stayed in one of those “love” hotels in South Korea and it was “quite an experience” 🙂
I hope to eat at the restaurant one of these days!!
So beautiful. The house and surrounding areas are breathtaking. The changing of the leaves and the water wheel. Wow,inside the house is awesome. Oh, and the food. The tofu less the goma and the crispy fishe.Wow. I really need to experience this place. I don’t like the texture of the goma but suru goma is fine
I have always wanted to see fireflies too
Can’ wait to see this place c.
Hi Suzan! Oh you will love this place! The food is very good and eating it in this atmosphere makes the whole experience very special! 🙂
Wow, thanks for sharing this with us! I’m looking forward to visit it because the price is quite affordable! May I ask, when did you go? And there were koyo??
Hi Jessie! I visited for Father’s Day (same 3rd Sunday of June last year). 🙂 I bet fall foliage is beautiful there.
It is on my list — I have just the occasion coming up soon and will make the journey from Nagoya.
Hi Cyn! I’ll be in Nagoya later next week too. Do you have any place you recommend? Let me know! 🙂 It’s a bit far from Tokyo but hope you get a chance to enjoy meals at this restaurant one day!
Thank you !
Thanks so much for reading, Junghee!
Very intersting place and restaurant ,my question is which season the best to visited this place.
And it easily by using public transportation ?
Thanks for assistant to reply
Warms
Isti Soe
Hi Isti! I believe Japanese gardens are created to be enjoyed in every season. However my all time favorite season is fall in Japan. As I mentioned, the fireflies during the summer months can be unique and beautiful too. 🙂 Public transportation info is already written at the end of the post.
I went there in August. It was beautiful but the heat and humidity was pretty intense that time of year. I would recommend a different month!
Good call. Japan’s summer is pretty crazy hot and humid…especially if you’re not used to Asian summer…
Oh my gosh! I was excited to see this review of Ukai Toriyama! My husband’s cousin took us there last summer and I could not remember the name of this restaurant. It is like dining in another world in another time! The atmosphere & gardens were unbelievable & the food was exquisite! Plan to spend time for a memorable experience & wonderful meal!
JOC definitely knew what he was talking about!
Hi Annie! You and I are very lucky to be able to dine at this restaurant considering that we live outside Japan. 🙂 I’m so happy that you could get the restaurant name and what a coincidence! 😉
Dear Nami,
WOW THANK YOU! I have absolutely no idea such a restaurant experience exist in Japan! Even though its location is not exactly convenient, this is definitely a Japanese experience I think many foreign tourists are not aware of! And the price!! Very reasonable for such an immersive experience! (I feel kind of ripped off now eating ‘fancy’ Japanese food outside Japan because it is usually very expensive ~YEN10,000+ inside just a nice fancy looking restaurant…).
Thanks for the photos and sharing your experience!!
PS: What a location to hold a wedding banquet…
Hi Carrier! Yeah the access to this restaurant is not easy but it has to be outside of city to have this kind of big green land. It’s such a beautiful place to dine and the price is really reasonable. In SF, it costs probably the same or even more for ordinary Japanese food… And we have to pay tip and tax…so I thought this is such a good deal considering this whole experience!
On a quiet Long Weekend Monday morning I was unaware of the Orlando tragedy until I opened your post. Nami – thank you. Understand the background but feel so helpless . . . when will the silent majority be able to ‘take over’ . . . ands stop the horrors . . .
Have been to hundreds of Japanese restaurants both in the country and its diaspora . . . this must be one of the most appealing of all: modern, appealing and beautifully plated. I know it is a restaurant description but those beautiful, beautiful garden scenes make this a more beautiful world . . .
Hi Eha! I woke up to the news too. 🙁 It’s very scary guns are easily accessibly in this country.
As for this restaurant, you will absolutely love this place!!
Amazing ! Thank you for sharing all that loveliness!
Thank you Karen! 🙂
Thank you for writing about this experience. I am planning a trip to Japan in a little over a year for my future wife and I’s honeymoon and enjoy these thoughtful travel posts almost as much as your recipes. This place looks amazing so I’m going to try to add it to the itinerary!
Hi Mathew! First of all, congratulations on your engagement! I’m so excited to hear your are honeymooning in Japan too! Hope you have a lovely wedding and trip to Japan!
Oh my goodness. This was a wonderful restaurant writeup. Your writing put me right there with you, I could almost savor the food. Your description of the entire experience again get inside that restaurant and the gardens outside. I have never thought of traveling to Japan, but now you have me thinking. And if I do, this restaurant will be THE place to go! Thanks for sharing your lovely experience. I am curious to know how much it cost to dine there, including tip, for four adults.
Thanks so much for reading my post! So happy to hear you enjoyed reading this post. Yes, if you had a chance, definitely visit this place. It’s totally worth it! 🙂