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What is Sanpeijiru?
Sanpeijiru (三平汁) is a traditional fish and vegetable soup from Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island. The broth is made with kombu dashi and simply seasoned with sake and salt. It’s enjoyed at home and in restaurants, especially as a warming meal during Hokkaido’s cold winters.
My recipe uses salmon, potatoes, daikon, carrots, and negi (Japanese long green onion). Some versions include konnyaku and other root vegetables, or use herring, cod, or hokke (Okhotsk atka mackerel) instead of salmon.
Also, herring, cod, or Hokke (Okhotsk atka mackerel) are sometimes used instead of salmon, but I haven’t had a chance to try the soup with other fish besides salmon.
My Recipe Story
I’ve enjoyed Sanpeijiru several times on visits to Hokkaido, and I love ordering it at sushi restaurants there. A piping-hot bowl of salmon and vegetables is especially comforting in the cold weather.
My mom taught me how to make this soup. She pours boiling water over the salmon to remove its fishy smell and some of the saltiness. When I tried her method with salmon I bought in the US, the broth still had a strong fishy taste. I found that blanching the salmon for 30 seconds worked much better, so that’s the method I share here.
If you enjoy Japanese soup recipes, try Tonjiru (Pork and Vegetable Miso Soup), Japanese Glass Noodle Soup, and Cold Miso Soup next!
Key Ingredients
- Salmon scraps – In Japan, we use many parts of the salmon in cooking, including the head, skin, and bones. Sanpeijiru is a delicious way to use the trimmings if you buy or catch a whole salmon. You can also ask your fishmonger for salmon scraps or look for packages labeled ara (あら) or kiriotoshi (切り落とし) at Japanese grocery stores.
- Salted salmon – Adds meaty pieces of fish and seasons the soup. You can make Salted Salmon at home or buy it at a Japanese grocery store. If you can’t find salmon scraps, use additional salted salmon fillets instead.
- Kombu (dried kelp) – Gives the broth gentle umami that complements the salmon.
- Daikon and carrot – Add sweetness as they simmer and absorb the flavorful broth.
- Potatoes – Make the soup hearty and satisfying. I use Yukon Gold potatoes because they hold their shape well during cooking.
- Tokyo negi (Japanese long green onion) – Adds sweetness and a mild onion flavor. You can substitute scallions if you can’t find it.
- Sake and salt – Keep the seasoning simple so the salmon and vegetables shine. Taste the broth before adding salt, as the salted salmon already contributes saltiness.
How to Make Sanpeijiru
- Blanch the salmon. Cut the salmon scraps and salted salmon into serving pieces. Blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and rinse gently to remove residue and scales.
- Start the broth. Place the salmon, water, and kombu in a pot and heat slowly. Remove the kombu just before boiling, then skim off any foam and excess fat.
- Add the vegetables. Add the sliced daikon, carrot, and negi. Cover and simmer until the vegetables are almost tender.
- Cook the potatoes. Add the peeled, cubed potatoes and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until tender.
- Season and serve. Skim again as needed, stir in the sake, and taste before adding salt. Serve hot.
Nami’s Recipe Tips
- Blanch and rinse the salmon. Blanch the salmon scraps and salted salmon in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and gently rinse away any residue and scales. This helps remove the fishy smell and some of the saltiness.
- Remove the kombu before the broth boils. Heat the broth slowly to draw out the kombu’s umami, then remove it just before boiling to prevent a bitter taste and slimy texture.
- Cook the salmon before adding the vegetables. This makes it easier to skim off the foam and excess fat for a clean-tasting broth.
- Add the potatoes later. Wait until the daikon and carrots are almost tender before adding the potatoes so they don’t fall apart. I use Yukon Gold potatoes because they hold their shape well.
- Taste before adding salt. Salted salmon varies in saltiness and seasons the broth as it cooks. Adjust the seasoning at the end so the soup doesn’t become too salty.
Make Ahead Tips
Make the salted salmon ahead of time so it’s ready when you need it. You can also slice the daikon, carrot, and negi a day ahead and refrigerate them in an airtight container. Peel and cut the potatoes just before cooking.
Storage and Reheating Tips
- To store: Transfer leftover soup to airtight containers and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
- To reheat: Gently warm the soup in a saucepan until hot throughout. Avoid vigorous boiling or stirring, which can break apart the salmon and potatoes.
FAQ
Where does the name “sanpeijiru” come from?
Jiru (汁) means “soup,” but the origin of Sanpei (三平) is uncertain. Three theories suggest it was named after a warrior named Sanpei Saito, a fisherman named Sanpei who prepared the soup for the lord of Matsumae, or the Sanpei-zara dishes used to serve it. While no one knows which story is true, all three trace the soup’s history back to the late Edo period.
How is Sanpeijiru different from Ishikari nabe?
Both are Hokkaido specialties made with salmon and vegetables. Sanpeijiru is a soup with a light kombu broth seasoned with sake and salt, typically made with salmon scraps and sometimes salted salmon. Ishikari Nabe is a miso-based hot pot made with fresh salmon, tofu, and vegetables. Some versions include sake lees, butter, or milk for extra richness.
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Sanpeijiru (Japanese Salmon Soup)
Ingredients
- 1 lb salmon scraps (approximately; the amount doesn‘t need to be exact; read more about salmon scraps (ara or kiriotoshi in Japanese) in the blog post)
- 3 fillets Homemade Japanese Salted Salmon
- 4 cups water
- 1 piece kombu (dried kelp) (2 x 3 inches, 5 x 8 cm per piece)
- 8 inches daikon radish
- 1 carrot
- 2 Tokyo negi (long green onion) (or 4 scallions/green onions)
- 2 potatoes (I use Yukon gold potatoes as they don‘t break easily compared to russet potatoes)
- 4 Tbsp sake
- 1 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt (use half the amount or the same weight for table salt)
Instructions
- Gather all the ingredients.
To Blanch the Salmon
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut 1 lb salmon scraps into pieces about 2–3 inches (5–8 cm).
- Cut 3 fillets Homemade Japanese Salted Salmon in half crosswise.
- When the water is boiling, blanch the salmon scraps and salted salmon fillets for 30 seconds. This will help get rid of the odor and remove some of the saltiness. Read my blog post about why this step is essential.
- Drain and rinse each salmon piece with water to get rid of the fat, protein (the white stuff), and sometimes scales. It’s important to get rid of the smelly oil. Read more about it in the post.
- Put all the salmon in a large pot and add 4 cups water.
To Cook the Sanpeijiru
- Add 1 piece kombu (dried kelp) and cover with the lid. Slowly bring it to boil so that the kombu has time to release its umami.
- Meanwhile, peel and cut 8 inches daikon radish in quarters lengthwise. Then, thinly cut crosswise into quarter slices.
- Peel and slice 1 carrot into thin rounds (or halves or quarters, depending on the size).
- Cut 2 Tokyo negi (long green onion) or 4 green onion/scallions diagonally into ½-inch (1.3-cm) pieces. All the vegetables, except for the potatoes, are now ready to go.
- When the soup is almost boiling, remove the kombu (you can reserve it for another use). Kombu gets slimy and releases a bitter taste in boiling water, so we remove it right before boiling. Using a fine-mesh sieve, skim the foam, fat, and scum floating on the surface of the soup. This is very important to achieve a nice, clean flavor. Some people cook the vegetables first and then add the salmon, but I prefer to cook the salmon first so it’s easier to clean the soup before adding the vegetables.
- Once the soup is clean, add the vegetables. Cover with the lid and continue to cook until the vegetables are almost tender (80% done).
- Meanwhile, peel 2 potatoes and remove the potato eyes (sprouts) if there are any.
- Cut the potato into bite-size cubes (I cut each potato into 8 pieces) and soak in water to remove the starch.
- When the daikon is semi-translucent and tender (no more raw, hard parts), add the potatoes. Continue cooking for about 15 minutes until the potatoes become tender (depending on their size).
- With the fine-mesh sieve, scoop more fat and foam, if there is any.
- Once the potatoes are tender, add 4 Tbsp sake and 1 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt (use half the amount or the same weight for table salt). Add more salt if necessary. The saltiness depends on the salmon, so be sure to taste the soup before seasoning. Serve hot in individual bowls and enjoy!
To Store
- You can keep the leftovers in an airtight container or in a pot and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Nutrition
The nutrition facts shown are generated by an online calculator and are estimates only. Please consult a professional nutritionist for specific dietary needs.
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